这光景,米其林餐厅也在向外卖低头

2021年1月15日
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疫情之下,可能不少行业都不得不放下之前的执着,另辟生存之道,就连一直以来不为经营发愁的米其林餐厅,也被迫送起了外卖。疫情如何影响餐饮行业?米其林大厨在外卖菜品上又会做出何种改变?

这光景,米其林餐厅也在向外卖低头

These Days, Even a Michelin Star Chef Has to Sell Takeout

最近,就连米其林星级厨师也得推出外卖了

For nearly three years, the chef T.J. Steele refused to offer delivery at Claro, his Michelin star restaurant in Brooklyn.

“克拉洛”是布鲁克林一家米其林星级餐厅。近三年来,其主厨T.J. 斯蒂尔一直拒绝提供外卖。

But because of the coronavirus, Mr. Steele has had to make some compromises to stay in business. He has signed up with two delivery companies—Grubhub and Caviar. He has created a menu that eschews complex, hard-to-deliver items like tuna tostada in favor of homey offerings like chicken.

但由于新冠疫情来袭,斯蒂尔不得不做出一些妥协,以保住餐厅生意。他注册了Grubhub和Caviar这两家外卖递送平台,并设计了一份菜单,不做金枪鱼玉米饼等复杂、难运送的菜品,而选择了鸡肉这样的家常食品。

Before the coronavirus made delivery a necessity, restaurants across the country — from mom-and-pops to major chains like McDonald’s — were slowly beginning to reinvent themselves as logistics operations, using software to track orders on different delivery platforms or experimenting with containers and menu items designed to travel.

在新冠疫情使送餐服务成为必然之前,美国各地的餐厅——从夫妻经营的小餐馆到像麦当劳这样的大型连锁餐厅——正慢慢地开始把自己改造成物流公司,使用软件来跟踪不同配送平台上的订单,或者尝试为长途运输设计包装盒和菜品。

Now, what began as a steady evolution is taking place at warp speed, as even chefs and owners who had long resisted delivery, like Mr. Steele, adapt to the pandemic.

现在,这种起初稳步进行的变革,正在急速发展。即使是像斯蒂尔这样长久以来拒绝外卖服务的主厨和餐厅老板们,也在适应疫情带来的变化。

Even as deliveries have ballooned the last few years, their quality has been inconsistent. Many restaurants consider delivery apps a necessary evil because of the large third-party commissions. And some restaurants lack the infrastructure to execute a successful delivery business.

尽管在过去几年里,外卖交付量激增,但这些外卖的质量却时好时坏,无法得到保证。由于要支付大笔第三方佣金,许多餐厅不喜欢送餐软件,却又不得不使用它们。还有一些餐厅缺少相关基础设施,没法成功开展外送业务。

Analysts estimate that 75 percent of independent restaurants that have been closed to protect Americans from the virus won’t survive the crisis.

分析人士估计,美国在此次疫情中为保护民众免于感染而关闭的独立经营餐厅里,有75%熬不过这次危机。

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