疫情笼罩,时尚业面临大考

2021年1月15日
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随着疫情蔓延,各行各业都受到影响,时尚业也不例外。作为时尚圈年中盛事的秋冬时装周,因为疫情变得冷清,有的秀甚至被取消。时尚品牌受到的影响也难以预估。疫情下的时装周究竟如何?怎样的品牌更可能挺过疫情的影响?

疫情笼罩,时尚业面临大考

The Fashion World, Upended by Coronavirus

被新冠病毒颠覆的时尚界

Twice a year, the luxury fashion houses of the world present their ready-to-wear clothing for the coming season. But this year, the fashion weeks intersected with an outbreak of a new coronavirus.

每年两度的时装周上,全世界的奢侈品时装公司会展示其为即将到来的季节设计的成衣。但今年的时装周却碰上了一种新型冠状病毒疫情的爆发。

As the virus spreads, the industry isn’t so sure about its ability to move forward.

随着该病毒的扩散,整个时尚行业担心一切会踌躇不前。

“Empty seats at shows are not the problem — it is what is happening in showrooms, the holdups in the supply chains and what they might mean,” said Pascal Morand, the executive president of an organizing body of Paris Fashion Week.

巴黎时装周一家组织机构的执行总裁帕斯卡尔•莫兰说:“时装周观秀人数减少并非问题所在,问题出在展厅环节、供应链停滞以及随之而来的后果。”

Fashion buyers employed by retailers and e-commerce platforms negotiate order sizes and prices with brands and decide what goes into stores. This happens during intimate showroom appointments separate from runway presentations.

零售商和电商平台会雇佣时尚买家,与各类品牌商协商订单的大小和价格,并决定哪些商品进驻商店。而这个过程还需私下预约展厅会面,独立于时装秀进行。

This season’s orders have been down, designers said. Not necessarily for big companies like Valentino, Vuitton and Tod’s, their executives said, but for smaller independent houses, and particularly for those whose production takes place even partially in China.

设计师们说,这一季的订单减少了。华伦天奴、路易威登和Tod’s等大品牌的高管们表示,受影响的未必是像自家这样的大公司,而是那些较小的独立品牌,尤其是那些甚至有一部分生产在中国进行的品牌。

In an effort to stop the spread of the virus, thousands of Chinese factories, already closed over the celebratory New Year period, have yet to reopen, bringing manufacturing to a near standstill and headaches for many fashion companies that produce samples and wares in the country. Significant added costs from order backlogs and logistics delays are now expected, as well as a looming threat to global trade.

为了阻止病毒的传播,在春节期间已经关闭的数千家中国工厂尚未复工,这不仅使中国的制造业几乎陷入停滞,也让许多在中国生产样品和产品的时装公司头疼不已。目前可以预见的是,订单积压和物流延迟将带来巨大的额外成本,并对全球贸易构成迫在眉睫的威胁。

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