内情揭秘:包包的前世今生

2021年1月15日
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现在网上有这样一类视频很火爆,叫“开包视频”,up 主在镜头前,一一细数自己包里的东西。学生党的包里装着书本文具,吃货包里塞满饮料和小零食,养生一代也绝不会落了自己的枸杞茶。可以说一只包就是一个小世界,它能反映包主人的年龄、职业、兴趣爱好、生活习惯等等,甚至还能反映一定的时代特征。今天,作者就带我们回顾了包包的前世今生,不同时代的包都长什么样?包里都装了些什么?外观和内在之间又有着怎样的联系?

内情揭秘:包包的前世今生

Inside story: handbags that made history

内情揭秘:包包的前世今生

While much attention is paid to the exterior of a bag — its design, status and, inevitably, its price tag, less scrutiny is paid to this rich and complex internal life and the tension between the two.

人们总是更关注一只包的外在,比如它的外观设计和品牌地位,当然,还有标价;不过人们却很少细细观察包包里潜藏的那个丰富而复杂的“内心”世界,以及外在和内在间的矛盾关系。

When a woman stepped out in the 1740s, her private belongings would have included a watch, a snuff box, money, jewellery and perhaps some food. These are what she chose to take from her domestic sphere into the world thanks to detachable pockets that were tied around the waist, accessible through openings in the seams of petticoats.

18 世纪 40 年代,当一位女性走出家门,她的个人随身物品可能有钟表、鼻烟盒、钱、首饰,也许还会有点吃的。这些就是她选择从家里带出门的东西,当时的女性会佩戴系在腰间的“活口袋”,她们可以从衬裙缝合线的开口处伸进去,多亏了这些口袋的发明,她们才能随身携带那些物品。

By 1863, she may have included scissors, a purse, a thimble, a miniature notebook and a magnifying glass. These she would have worn in the form of a chatelaine: a series of small purses that were suspended from the waist and highly visible.

到了 1863 年,她可能会带上剪刀、钱袋、顶针、小记事本和放大镜。她会把这些物品装在一套叫作“短链子”的东西上——它由一连串的小袋子组成,会被别在腰间,十分显眼。

What many women carry in their bags some three centuries later is remarkably unchanged. One friend lists the contents of her bag at this moment as: “A book, cosmetics, phone, keys, reading glasses, spare contact lenses and eye drops, etc.”

往后的大约三个世纪,女性们装在包里的东西都没什么变化,出奇地一致。我的一位朋友细数了现在她包包里的物品:“书、化妆品、手机、钥匙、老花镜、备用隐形眼镜和眼药水等等。”

“The content is so crucial,” says Dr Lucia Savi, exhibition curator of Bags: Inside Out. “As bank notes came in, handbags had to be compatible, at least bigger than a £5 note.” Now we carry cards, it is the phone that dictates design. “No one will create a bag that doesn’t fit the largest phone on the market.”

“包里的东西起着至关重要的作用,”Bags: Inside Out 展览的策展人露西娅·萨维博士这样说道,“随着纸币的问世,包包也必须顺应时代需求,它至少要比一张 5 英镑的钞票大。”时至今日,我们都带银行卡了,所以手机开始左右包包的设计。“没有人会设计一个装不下市面上最大的手机的包包。”

More surprising, she says, is how the most ordinary of bags can communicate something about us. “It’s a blank canvas that can tell us all sorts of things: your status, your beliefs.”

她继续说,更令人惊奇的是,即使是最普通的包,也能反映出我们身上的一部分。“包是一块空白的画布,而这块画布可以传递给我们各种各样的信息:比如你的身份地位、生活信条。”

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